Today we went to beach near Manuel Antonio National Park. Apparently, this place is a surfing hot spot so I thought I would give it try. I rented a beginner board that was about 20' feet long and about as wide as our first rental car, but it was well warranted. After about an hour of some really glorious wipe-outs, I got to the point were I could stand up and ride the wave straight into shore (not even the slightest sign of turning). The picture below is me sitting on the board (sadly this is the best photo we have of the event as the rest I am too far away).Here is what I learned during my 3 or so hours of trying to surf:
1) Be Selective - Don't go after just any wave that looks halfway decent, you end up paddling your butt off and getting nowhere (and when being selective it helps to be patient).
2) Don't jump on the first big wave you see - nice waves seem to travel in packs or "sets" and if you jump on the first big one and fall you will get pounded by the ones that follow. Instead, flirt with the first one, paddle a little bit and get in better position for next one. It is important to jump on the next one or maybe the third because it could be last and then your just sitting around waiting for another 'set' to come your way.
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